An article by Karen Kamel
Conceptualize, design, produce, market, and season launch. That’s the way it’s always been. The sequential cycle fashion brands undergo every season that determines both their survival and success. In the often-fickle world of fashion, the pressure to predict trends and stay ahead of the curve is what seems to prevail all within the industry.
They say the real magic happens when fashion companies balance out between the commercial side and the creative realm of the brand; however, the scale seems to be tipping towards the former and has been for quite some time. Bold experimentation, spontaneity and self-expression are being replaced by a system that has become overly commercialized. Apparently, there’s no way to put a lid on the overbearing accumulation of market demands, so the answer is to produce massively. The constant loop of trying to meet an ever-growing consumer demand ultimately compromises the artisanal thought behind a great product. And rushing production to meet those mounting needs in such a short span of time isn’t helping the case either.
Brands do not get to finish one collection before they have to start on the upcoming one, now amounting to seasons that are even more relentlessly fast paced. So, this overlap catering to the logistics, business metrics and sales is not leaving enough room for creativity for the designers, or at least to be as creative along those timelines.
The issue isn’t just rooted in the overwhelming momentum of the industry’s processes. Italian designer Francesco Risso captured the shift in priorities in the industry during a recent BoF podcast episode, stating that “fashion has become about stunts.” Seemingly, the commercial side of fashion houses has been eating away at their compelling artistry, the very thing that makes it unique, in the name of exposure. It’s not about the clothes anymore, but rather the numbers generated and the brand’s potential for virality. Simply put, they’re driven by spectacle over substance.
The technicalities behind making the clothes are essential to account for, but the love and dedication poured into the craft, in the process of its making, represent the core and soul of the brand. Fashion has lost a bit of that. A blank canvas, the same tools—but different perspectives. It’s these kinds of creative collisions taking shape that we need to see more of to turn the tables and step away from a narrative that’s been thoroughly productized and corporatized. It’s not meant to be rushed. The problem is, that is not necessarily sustainable in today’s fashion scheme.
Creativity lives on as part of people’s social expression. A product that’s meant to be wearable and integrates in everyday life but also encapsulates meaning. Because at the end of the day, creativity is a lifelong pursuit of excellence, so taking shortcuts cannot produce great, memorable outcomes.
It’s time to slow down.
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