An Article by Lara Walsh
The illustrious world of high fashion gains its exclusivity not purely from craftsmanship and quality. Hidden beneath layers of silk and cashmere are deeply entrenched ties to powerful political figures, global economic systems, and worldwide trade policies. The political footprint of fashion is characterised by wealth, corruption, and influence.
The fashion industry can levy immense amounts of pressure when faced with barriers to business, such as tariffs and import restrictions. Take the case of brexit. Whilst the UK fashion industry depended on duty-free access to the European market, European counterparts feared the British gaining an unfair advantage in trade. Members of the UK Fashion and Textile Association, of which Burberry and Asos are included, lobbied for tariff-free access to the European market. More recently, they submitted recommendations to the Treasure and Department for Business regarding US tariffs, fearing the rippling effect of the ending of de minimis exemptions. Other ambitions include the reinstatement of VAT refunds for non-UK shoppers and increased customs integration in the 2026 UK-EU renegotiation.
Fashion’s Role in Shaping Policy
Fashion’s voice in international politics is a powerful one. The European Fashion Alliance fights for digitalisation and circular business models in the name of sustainability. Influence is such that many of the big names appear on the EU transparency register. Hennes and Mauritz (H&M) are listed as having vested interests in matters pertaining to international trade, sustainability, markets, AI, and more. Just earlier this month, representatives met with members of the European Commission to discuss the circular economy.
And this trend of politicised fashion is not reserved for European affairs. Recent US elections have seen American designers allying with politicians who align with their views on labour laws, environmental regulations, trade agreements, and human rights. The 2024 ‘Designers for Democracy’ campaign witnessed the partnership of many major names, such as Tory Burch and Vera Wang, with the Democratic presidential bid.
How Big Brands Wield Global Influence
Fashion conglomerates, such as Kering and Riechmont, span industries, wielding influence across multiple sectors of the market. Through a combination of their extensive reach, with the US fashion industry employing 1.8 million people before Covid-19, and their immense wealth and market control, politics often bows to leaders of major fashion houses. Bernard Arnault is often central to many a scandal; most recently, in 2024 being accused of an espionage scheme targeting left-wing politician, Francois Ruffin. The same year, he gained a seat at the Academie des Sciences, Morales et Politiques, increasing access to governmental policy. Beyond Europe, Arnault has been open about his support for Trump’s policies, attending his inauguration and beginning to move LVMH productions to the US.
Consumer Trends Reflect Political Values
The intersection of fashion and politics is often most visible in consumer behaviour. Culture, as a reflection of politics, shows rising and falling trends through subtle changes. Recent waves of ‘quiet luxury’ are a mirror of public attitudes; whilst it is increasingly less fashionable to use clothing as a vessel to carry pretentious displays of wealth, the ultra-rich turn to more understated means of signalling. Conservative clothing choices, evident through the rise of trad-wife content and ideas of femininity and modesty, show a harking back to repressive gender roles. Trends that praise tradition and conceal wealth reflect class and gender divisions, as well as criticisms of excess wealth.
Labour, Ethics, and Cultural Ownership
Interactions between fashion and the global economy manifest in the form of labour laws and ethical concerns. The Modern Slavery Act (UK, 2015) forced fashion brands and retailers to report annually on efforts to eradicate modern slavery throughout their supply chains. Producers increasingly rely on outsourced labour in countries with lax regulations, circumventing policies that could restrict mass creation. Often, luxury brands use cultural patterns and traditions within their collections, such as Louis Vuitton’s appropriation of African iconography, particularly from the Kwele tribe. These people often live below the poverty line and receive no compensation for use of their designs, unlike Burberry which has copyrighted the use of its signature check pattern. The Maasai Intellectual Property Initiative (MIPI) was established to attempt to regulate use without licensing agreements, protecting the cultures and lives of people within the Maasai tribe. MIPI estimates that the Maasai are owed compensation from around 80 companies, and could enforce an annual licensing fee of $10 million.
Fashion houses do not operate solely in offices and factories, but also at the tables of some of the world’s most powerful people. The fashion industry is just one example of the unelected forces that shape our daily lives. Through lobbying and campaigning, they can sway entire governments and mould policies to their whim, altering the face of global politics every day.
The Violet Post 
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